# Fabrics

A fabric's construction — woven, knit, or nonwoven/felt — decides whether it has a grain and selvage or stretches instead, and its fiber and weight decide drape, structure, and care. Intended use decides which certifications and finishes actually matter: a flame standard for upholstery, OEKO-TEX for baby items, water repellency for outdoor gear.

## How it works

Woven fabric interlaces two yarn sets at right angles, so it only stretches diagonally on the bias and frays at a raw edge unless finished; knit fabric loops a single yarn path, giving it elasticity in multiple directions — some knits stretch up to 500% — and it won't fray but weft-knit yardage can run or unravel when cut. Nonwoven fabric like felt bonds fibers directly with heat, chemicals, or mechanical pressure instead of weaving or knitting them, so it has no grain, doesn't fray, and can be cut in any direction. Fiber content (cotton, polyester, wool, and so on) and weight (how many grams per square metre) then decide how any of these three constructions drapes, breathes, and holds up, while finishes like flame-retardant treatment, OEKO-TEX certification, and durable water repellent are added on top for specific end uses.

## How an expert narrows the choice

```mermaid
timeline
  section 1 · Construction
    woven : ask Weave type, Selvage edge : skip Stretch, Stretch direction
    knit : ask Stretch, Stretch direction : skip Weave type, Selvage edge
    nonwoven_or_felt : skip Weave type, Selvage edge, Stretch, Stretch direction
  section 2 · Main project
    home_decor_upholstery : ask Flammability standard : skip Stretch, Stretch direction
    outdoor_performance : ask Water repellency, Breathability
    quilting_patchwork : skip Water repellency, Flammability standard
    apparel : ask Stretch, Breathability
```

1. **Construction.** Is it woven, stretchy knit, or felt-like?
   Construction decides whether weave/selvage facets or stretch facets apply at all — asking this first avoids asking about selvage on a knit or stretch percentage on felt.
   If woven: ask Weave type, Selvage edge; skip Stretch, Stretch direction.
   If knit: ask Stretch, Stretch direction; skip Weave type, Selvage edge.
   If nonwoven_or_felt: skip Weave type, Selvage edge, Stretch, Stretch direction.
   Skip if already known: a query that already names a specific fabric type like 'denim' or 'jersey', an earlier answer naming stretch or weave.

2. **Main project.** Clothing, quilting, home decor, or outdoor gear?
   Use decides which certifications and finishes actually matter — a flame standard for upholstery, water repellency for outdoor gear, shrink-stability for quilting — so later questions target the right spec.
   If home_decor_upholstery: ask Flammability standard; skip Stretch, Stretch direction.
   If outdoor_performance: ask Water repellency, Breathability.
   If quilting_patchwork: skip Water repellency, Flammability standard.
   If apparel: ask Stretch, Breathability.
   Skip if already known: an earlier answer naming a specific project like 'quilt', 'curtains', or 'swimsuit'.

## What to surface

### Construction

Whether the fabric is woven (two yarn sets interlaced), knit (looped yarn), or nonwoven/felt (fibers bonded without weaving or knitting). Construction decides which spec set applies next: a woven's weave type and selvage, a knit's stretch percentage and direction, or felt's lack of grain and fray entirely. It decides whether the piece frays, stretches, or just holds its cut edge. [1] [2] [3]

Values: woven, knit, nonwoven_or_felt.
Question to ask: Is it woven, stretchy knit, or felt-like?

Used as: top-level split, filter. Data: derived from listing fields, backfill cost low. Look for it as: Infer from the title: 'knit', 'jersey', 'stretch' imply knit; 'felt', 'fleece' imply nonwoven; otherwise default to woven, the most common quilting/apparel construction.
Title keyword match covers nearly all listings; a true ambiguous case like bonded fleece is rare.

### Main project

What the buyer mainly intends to make: apparel, quilting/patchwork, home decor or upholstery, outdoor/performance gear, or another craft use. Use decides which certifications and finishes matter: quilting wants shrink-stable cotton, upholstery wants a flame standard, outdoor gear wants water repellency, and apparel wants the right stretch and drape for fit. [1] [2]

Values: apparel, quilting_patchwork, home_decor_upholstery, outdoor_performance, other_craft.
Question to ask: Clothing, quilting, home decor, or outdoor gear?

Used as: top-level split, filter. Data: derived from listing fields, backfill cost low. Look for it as: Often implied by the product's marketed category ('quilting cotton', 'apparel fabric', 'outdoor canvas', 'upholstery fabric') rather than a stated field.
Keyword-match title/category against the five values; default craft-weight cotton prints to quilting_patchwork.

### Fiber content

What the fabric is made from: cotton, linen, wool, silk, rayon/viscose, polyester, nylon, spandex/elastane, or a blend. Fiber decides breathability, how it dyes and fades, whether it melts or burns near heat, how it wrinkles, and whether it's machine washable or needs special care — more than any other single spec. [7]

Values: cotton, linen, wool, silk, rayon_or_viscose, polyester, nylon, spandex_or_elastane_blend, other_natural, other_synthetic, blend_unspecified_ratio.
Question to ask: Cotton, linen, wool, silk, or synthetic?

Used as: filter, shown on the card. Data: on the listing, backfill cost low. Look for it as: Almost always stated on the listing or title as a fiber-content line, e.g. '100% Cotton' or '95% Polyester 5% Spandex'.
Parse the fiber-content percentage line when present; otherwise keyword-match the title.
Chart: position on a natural-to-synthetic axis.

### Stretch

How much the fabric stretches: not at all (stable), a little, or a lot — knit fabric can stretch as much as 500% depending on the knit pattern and yarn, and added spandex/elastane content stretches up to five times its own length. Patterns for fitted garments specify how much stretch the fabric needs for the piece to fit; using a fabric with less stretch than a stretch-pattern calls for produces a garment that's too tight to wear. [2] [4]

Values: none_stable, slight_stretch, high_stretch.
Question to ask: Should it stretch, or stay stable?

Used as: filter, shown on the card. Data: derived from listing fields, backfill cost low. Look for it as: Spandex/elastane in the fiber-content line signals high_stretch; plain woven cotton/linen signals none_stable; a plain knit without spandex is usually slight_stretch.
Default from fabric_construction and fiber_content: woven without spandex = none_stable, any spandex blend = high_stretch, plain knit without spandex = slight_stretch.
Chart: position on a stable-to-stretchy axis.

### Nap or pile

Whether the fabric has a nap or pile — a raised, directional surface like velvet or corduroy — that changes appearance depending on which way light hits it. Napped or pile fabric must be cut with every pattern piece facing the same direction or the finished piece shows mismatched shading, and it usually needs more yardage than a flat fabric of the same pattern. [5] [6]

Values: none, napped, pile.
Question to ask: Does it have a nap or pile, like velvet?

Used as: filter, shown on the card. Data: on the listing, backfill cost low. Look for it as: Named in the title for pile fabrics ('velvet', 'corduroy', 'minky'); flat fabrics rarely state 'no nap' so default to none.
Keyword match against known pile/nap fabric names; default to none.

### Opacity

How much light passes through the fabric: opaque, semi-sheer, or sheer (see-through), like chiffon or voile. Sheerness decides whether a garment needs a lining, whether curtains filter or block light, and whether a quilting print's back layer will show through the top layer. [10]

Values: opaque, semi_sheer, sheer, unspecified.
Question to ask: Should light pass through it, or block it?

Used as: filter, shown on the card. Data: on the listing, backfill cost low. Look for it as: Named in the title for sheer fabrics ('chiffon', 'voile', 'organza', 'sheer curtain fabric'); default to opaque when unstated.
Keyword match against known sheer fabric names; default opaque.
Chart: position on an opaque-to-sheer axis.

### Care

How the fabric should be cleaned: machine washable, hand wash only, dry clean only, or unspecified. Care decides whether a finished project survives normal laundering or needs special handling for life, which matters most for kidswear, quilts, and anything washed often. [11]

Values: machine_washable, hand_wash_only, dry_clean_only, unspecified.
Question to ask: Does it need to go in a washing machine?

Used as: filter, shown on the card. Data: needs research, backfill cost medium. Look for it as: Rarely stated directly on fabric listings; default by fiber when absent (natural fibers often hand-wash or dry-clean, synthetics often machine washable).
Default by fiber_content when no care line is given: wool/silk default to hand_wash_only or dry_clean_only, cotton/poly default to machine_washable.

### Water repellency

Whether the fabric has no water-resistant treatment, a durable water repellent (DWR) coating that beads water off the surface, or a fully waterproof coating or laminate. Outdoor and performance sewers need this to know whether a jacket or bag shell will shed rain or just resist light splashes, and whether a DWR coating will need reapplying over the garment's life. [12] [13]

Values: none, dwr_treated, waterproof_coated_or_laminated, unspecified.
Question to ask: Does it need to repel or block water?

Used as: filter, shown on the card. Data: on the listing, backfill cost low. Look for it as: Named in the title or spec sheet for technical fabrics ('DWR', 'waterproof', 'water-resistant'); default to none for standard apparel/quilting/decor fabric.
Keyword match against DWR/waterproof/water-resistant terms in the title; default to none.

### Breathability

Whether the fabric manages moisture by absorbing it into natural fiber, wicking it to the surface via a synthetic built for that, or barely breathing at all, like a coated or dense fabric. A natural fiber like cotton feels breathable until sweat saturates it, a moisture-wicking synthetic moves sweat to the surface so it evaporates instead of soaking in, and a coated or dense synthetic traps heat and moisture against the skin — the difference between a comfortable and a clammy project. [18] [19]

Values: breathable_absorbent, moisture_wicking_synthetic, low_breathability, unspecified.
Question to ask: Should it breathe, or wick sweat for sport?

Used as: filter, shown on the card. Data: derived from listing fields, backfill cost low. Look for it as: Not a stated listing field; infer from fiber_content (cotton/linen/wool = breathable_absorbent; polyester/nylon performance blends = moisture_wicking_synthetic) and water_repellency (waterproof-coated = low_breathability).
Default from fiber_content and water_repellency: natural fibers without a coating default to breathable_absorbent, synthetic blends marketed for activewear default to moisture_wicking_synthetic, anything waterproof-coated or laminated defaults to low_breathability.

### Weight

How much the fabric weighs per unit area — lightweight, midweight, or heavyweight — measured by experts in grams per square metre (GSM). Weight decides drape and structure: lightweight fabric flows and suits blouses or linings, midweight holds a garment's shape, and heavyweight fabric like canvas or denim stands up to bags and upholstery wear. [7]

Values: lightweight, midweight, heavyweight, unspecified.
Question to ask: Light and flowy, or heavy and structured?

Used as: filter, shown on the card. Data: derived from listing fields, backfill cost medium. Look for it as: Spec sheets state GSM or oz/yd² directly; retail titles often say 'lightweight', 'midweight quilting cotton', or a weight in oz (e.g. '12oz canvas').
GSM is usually on the brand spec sheet but rarely on the retail listing itself; fall back to keyword match on weight-class words in the title.
Chart: position on a light-to-heavy weight axis.

### Weave type

How a woven fabric's threads interlace: plain weave (simple over-under), twill (diagonal rib, like denim), satin/sateen (long floats for sheen), or unspecified. Weave decides surface and durability: plain weave is simplest and most stable, twill resists abrasion and hides soil (denim, chino), and satin/sateen floats create sheen but snag more easily. [1]

Values: plain, twill, satin_or_sateen, unspecified.

Used as: filter, shown on the card. Data: on the listing, backfill cost low. Look for it as: Named in the title for twill and sateen ('cotton twill', 'sateen'); plain weave is rarely labeled and is the default when nothing else is stated.
Keyword match against the three named weaves; default to plain when the title names no weave.

### Stretch direction

Whether the fabric's stretch runs only crosswise (two-way stretch) or in both the crosswise and lengthwise directions (four-way stretch). Patterns for close-fitting garments like swimwear or leggings usually specify four-way stretch because the fit depends on give in both directions; a two-way stretch fabric on a four-way pattern can leave the garment too tight lengthwise. [2] [4]

Values: two_way, four_way, not_applicable.

Used as: filter, shown on the card. Data: derived from listing fields, backfill cost medium. Look for it as: Stated directly on knit/activewear fabric listings as 'two-way stretch' or 'four-way stretch'; not_applicable for woven fabric without spandex.
Default to not_applicable for woven without spandex; for knit, default to two_way unless the listing states four-way.

### OEKO-TEX certified

Whether the fabric is certified under OEKO-TEX Standard 100, which tests for harmful substances across four product classes, from Class 1 (babies and children up to 3 years) to Class 4 (home decor). Buyers making baby items, skin-contact apparel, or quilts for children look for this certification as proof the dyes and finishes were tested for harmful substances, not just that the fabric looks and feels safe. [16] [17]

Values: certified_class_1_infant, certified_class_2_or_higher, not_certified_or_unspecified.
Question to ask: Need it certified skin-safe for babies?

Used as: filter, shown on the card. Data: needs research, backfill cost medium. Look for it as: Brand spec sheets and some retail listings state the OEKO-TEX logo and class; otherwise unverifiable from the listing alone.
Mark not_certified_or_unspecified unless the listing or spec sheet explicitly shows the OEKO-TEX Standard 100 label and class.

### Bolt width

How wide the fabric is off the bolt — narrow, standard, or wide — which decides how much yardage a project needs and whether one width spans a project without seams. A narrower bolt needs more yardage, and more seams, to cover the same project than a wider one; curtain-makers and quilters backing large quilts specifically shop for wider fabric to avoid piecing a panel. [8] [9]

Values: narrow, standard, wide, extra_wide, unspecified.

Used as: shown on the card. Data: on the listing, backfill cost low. Look for it as: Usually stated in inches or cm on the listing or spec sheet; bucket into narrow/standard/wide/extra_wide relative to the category's typical bolt widths.
Parse the stated width number when present; default to unspecified otherwise rather than guessing a bucket.

### Selvage edge

Whether the fabric bolt has a selvage — the narrow, tightly woven finished edge along both lengthwise sides that won't fray — typically present on woven fabric and absent on knit or felt. A selvage marks the straight grain for cutting and shows the piece came off a bolt uncut on that edge; its absence, common on knit yardage, means you must find the grain another way. [1] [8]

Values: present, trimmed_off, not_applicable.

Used as: shown on the card. Data: derived from listing fields, backfill cost low. Look for it as: Not usually a listing field; infer 'present' for woven fabric sold as yardage, 'not_applicable' for knit or felt.
Derive from fabric_construction: woven defaults to present, knit/nonwoven to not_applicable.

### Shrinkage

Whether the fabric has been pre-shrunk or treated to resist shrinking, or is untreated and may shrink when first washed. Untreated natural-fiber fabric commonly shrinks on its first wash, so quilters and garment sewers pre-wash it before cutting; skipping that step on an untreated fabric throws off a pattern's finished size. [1]

Values: pre_shrunk_or_shrink_resistant, untreated_may_shrink, unspecified.

Used as: shown on the card. Data: needs research, backfill cost medium. Look for it as: Rarely stated on the listing; brand spec sheets sometimes note 'pre-washed' or a shrink-resistant finish. Default to untreated_may_shrink for natural-fiber wovens when unstated.
Default by fiber: cotton/linen/rayon default to untreated_may_shrink unless the listing says pre-washed; synthetics default to pre_shrunk_or_shrink_resistant since they shrink far less.

### Flammability standard

Whether the fabric meets the mandatory US flammability standard for clothing textiles (16 CFR 1610) or is treated/certified flame retardant, relevant most for children's sleepwear, upholstery, and home decor. The Consumer Product Safety Commission sets mandatory flammability limits for clothing textiles and stricter rules for children's sleepwear; a fabric that isn't rated can be unsafe or not legal to sell for those uses. [14] [15]

Values: meets_16cfr1610_general, treated_flame_retardant, untreated_or_unrated.

Used as: filter, shown on the card. Data: needs research, backfill cost medium. Look for it as: Stated on brand spec sheets for upholstery and children's sleepwear fabric as a pass/fail or certification; almost never on a plain apparel-cotton listing.
Default to untreated_or_unrated unless the listing or spec sheet explicitly claims flame-retardant treatment or standard compliance.

### Colorfastness

Whether the fabric's dye has been tested and rated for resistance to fading from washing, light, or rubbing, using AATCC or ISO test methods. A fabric with poor colorfastness bleeds onto other fabrics in the wash or fades in sunlight; quilters and anyone combining dark and light fabrics in one project care about this more than casual buyers do. [11]

Values: tested_and_rated, unspecified.

Used as: shown on the card. Data: needs research, backfill cost high. Look for it as: Rarely on retail listings; occasionally on brand spec sheets as a grade, e.g. a washing-fastness grade.
Default to unspecified; only mark tested_and_rated when the spec sheet states an explicit fastness grade.

## What you give up

- Woven fabric holds a tailored shape and only moves on the bias, but it frays and needs grainline precision; knit fabric skips both problems by stretching and resisting fray, at the cost of structure. [1] [2] Board branch: "More structure, less stretch".

## Words you will meet

- **Grain**. The direction a woven fabric's lengthwise and crosswise threads run; cutting along the grain keeps a piece from twisting out of shape.
- **Bias**. The diagonal, 45-degree direction across a woven fabric's grain — the only direction a woven fabric naturally stretches.
- **Selvage**. The narrow, tightly woven finished edge along both long sides of a fabric bolt that won't fray.
- **Nap**. A raised, directional fuzzy or looped surface, as on velvet or corduroy, that looks different depending which way light hits it.
- **GSM**. Grams per square metre, the metric unit experts use to state how heavy a fabric is.
- **Sheer**. Thin and semi-transparent enough that light and shapes pass through, like chiffon or voile.
- **DWR**. Durable water repellent: a factory-applied coating that makes a fabric's surface bead water off instead of soaking it in.
- **OEKO-TEX Standard 100**. A certification that tests a textile for harmful substances, with stricter limits the more a product touches skin.
- **Colorfastness**. How well a fabric's dye resists fading or bleeding when washed, rubbed, or exposed to light.
- **Four-way stretch**. Fabric that stretches both crosswise and lengthwise, needed for close-fitting garments like swimwear.
- **Bolt**. A roll of fabric as it comes from the mill, cut into shorter lengths for retail sale.
- **16 CFR 1610**. The mandatory US federal flammability standard that clothing textiles must meet before sale.
- **Run**. When a cut or snagged knit unravels along a line, the way a pulled thread in pantyhose does.
- **Floats**. In a satin or sateen weave, the long yarn segments that pass over several threads before interlacing, which make the surface shiny but easy to snag.
- **AATCC**. The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, a standard-setting body whose test methods grade colorfastness and other fabric properties.
- **ISO**. The International Organization for Standardization, the other standard-setting body whose test methods, alongside AATCC's, grade colorfastness and other fabric properties.
- **Moisture-wicking**. A fabric's ability to pull sweat along its fiber surface to the outer side where it evaporates, rather than absorbing and holding the moisture.

## Where we made a call

- Knit fabric is more forgiving for first-time sewers than woven because it won't fray and its stretch hides small fit errors. (confidence medium). Drawn from the general mechanical differences Wikipedia documents for woven vs. knit construction, not from a sewing-pedagogy study. [1] [2]

## References

1. [Woven fabric](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woven_fabric) (primer). Supports: Woven fabric only stretches diagonally on the bias; Woven fabric frays at edges unless finished; Treatments can add shrink or water resistance.
2. [Knitted fabric](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knitted_fabric) (primer). Supports: Knit loops give elasticity; knits can stretch up to 500%; Weft-knit fabric unravels (runs) when cut; warp-knit resists runs.
3. [Nonwoven fabric](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nonwoven_fabric) (primer). Supports: Nonwoven fibers are bonded by chemical, mechanical, heat, or solvent treatment, not woven or knitted (defines felt).
4. [Spandex](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spandex) (primer). Supports: Spandex/elastane stretches up to five times (500%) its length and recovers.
5. [Velvet](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velvet) (primer). Supports: Velvet is classified as a pile fabric with a nap.
6. [Corduroy](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corduroy) (primer). Supports: Corduroy is a woven fabric with warp-wise stripes of cut pile.
7. [Units of textile measurement](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Units_of_textile_measurement) (primer). Supports: Fabric weight is measured in grams per square metre (GSM); Thread count measures coarseness/fineness via ends and picks per inch.
8. [Selvage](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selvage) (primer). Supports: Selvage is the narrow, tightly woven finished edge that won't fray.
9. [Yard](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yard) (primer). Supports: Fabric is sold by the yard off a bolt in the US and UK; fat quarters are a bolt-width cut.
10. [Chiffon (fabric)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiffon_(fabric)) (primer). Supports: Chiffon is defined as a sheer, lightweight plain-woven textile.
11. [Colour fastness](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colour_fastness) (primer). Supports: AATCC and ISO test methods grade dye resistance to washing, light, and other exposure.
12. [Durable water repellent](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durable_water_repellent) (primer). Supports: DWR is a factory-applied coating or finish that makes fabric hydrophobic.
13. [Waterproof fabric](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waterproof_fabric) (primer). Supports: Waterproofing conforms to a governing specification; DWR coatings need periodic reapplication.
14. [U.S. Flammable Fabrics Act](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/U.S._Flammable_Fabrics_Act) (regulator). Supports: CPSC holds authority to set mandatory flammability standards for textiles and children's sleepwear.
15. [16 CFR § 1610.1 – Purpose, scope and applicability](https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/16/1610.1) (regulator). Supports: 16 CFR Part 1610 is the Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles.
16. [OEKO-TEX Standard 100](https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/our-standards/standard-100-by-oeko-tex) (spec sheet). Supports: Standard 100 has four product classes; Class 1 covers babies/children up to 3 years.
17. [Oeko-Tex](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oeko-Tex) (primer). Supports: Four product classes: I babies up to 36 months, II skin contact, III little/no contact, IV furnishings.
18. [Cotton Fabric — Fabrics Directory](https://www.sewport.com/fabrics-directory/cotton-fabric) (specialist review). Supports: Cotton fabric is very breathable; Cotton is highly moisture-wicking because it dries quickly despite high absorbency; Cotton is relatively prone to pilling, rips, and tears.
19. [Moisture management](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moisture_management) (primer). Supports: Natural fibers absorb more water than most synthetic fibers; moisture-wicking synthetics move sweat to the surface to evaporate; ISO 13029 and AATCC TM195 are wicking test methods.